#MCCOTInterview {27}

Ana  Ljubinković, the brilliant Artist of the Serbian Fashion scene

Some fashion designers are creative and some other are CREATIVE. Ana Ljubinković is definitively one of these lucky ones. She is indeed a talented and prolific Serbian Artist who has turned herself into a Fashion designer by chance in 2004 after graduating from  the Faculty of Fine Arts, University of Belgrade. She just wanted to take a break from Art and created her first fashion collection, which was showcased at Belgrade Fashion Week. Her career started then quickly and surely. Her eponymous fashion label based in Belgrade is now worldwide famous. Her style, which perfectly mixes Kitch (her special ingredient), Baroque and Serbian Heritage, is quirky in the best possible way.  This is not a surprise if International celebrities as Lady Gaga, Paloma Faith, Joe King or Blair Eadie love to wear her clothings when they attended special glam events. Le'ts meet a one-of-a-kind passionate woman with an incredibile creative mind who enjoys telling stories and celebrating her beloved heritage in a contemporary way. Because Fashion is not only Fashion. It is also Art. And above all it is Creativity. 

By Hélène Battaglia

Who are you?

I am Ana Ljubinković, a fashion designer and artist from Belgrade, Serbia.

You graduated from the Faculty of Fine Arts, University of Belgrade, with a degree in Painting. How did you then become a womenswear designer?

When I was deciding what faculty to enroll I wanted to study design but couldn't decide what kind of design I am mostly interested in. So I decided to study Art in general and that was the right decision. Design is applied Art and studying painting and getting knowledge about Art, doing Art for years got me the best preparation for getting into fashion.

How did you get ready for that and launch your own fashion brand?

I have always had a sketch book filled with design and art ideas, ever since the high school. I always find projects in there and so it happened that during my painting studies my sketchbooks had been filled with fashion ideas. After my graduation I decided to make a fashion collection, just to take a little break from art, but as it turned out, it was the moment I became a fashion designer. I had my first fashion show at Belgrade Fashion Week and here we are now.

How being first an artist does influence your collections?

Every designer should have good knowledge of Art history, study art in order to understand it and to take the best of it and apply it to design. Art teaches us estetics, rythm, composition, form, balance... all the essentials for a great design.

Your work embodies the positives of the Kitsch. In which way?

I like everything about the kitsch, it's humor, opulence, cuteness, playfulness. I find the greatest inspiration in kitsch and in baroque art (which can be kitschy too). I feel safe playing with these elements because I have great understanding for what kitsch is and I can put it in my collections as a special ingredient.

For what kind of women do you design?

It is probably a mistake not to have a type of women to design for, but I don't have. When I have an idea that I value worth making into collection, I will get on to it. If I feel I could make a good minimalistic collection I will do it. But, it is, definitely a type of woman who is a bit quirky, not obeying fashion trends, brave, intelligent. Maybe, by saying that Lady Gaga, Paloma Faith, Joe King or Blair Eadie wore my clothes, they fit my description so well.

As there is always a central story in each of your collection, did you consider yourself as a storyteller more than anything else?

That is an artist speaking through the designs. That is a concept, message that carries each collection. Fashion has such wide audience, why not trying to tell a story to them?

How do you daily nourish this one-of-a-kind creativity of yours?

I am very aware of my need to create and I feel my best when I can create every day. No matter how exhausting a tempo might be, working on collection 12 hours a day, I feel I could do even couple of more hours. There is such a joy when you love what you do for a living. It is such an excitment and constant play.

As your style is clearly extravagant, is there, to you, some limits a fashion designer cannot exceed?

Yes, I would never use fur or animal skin of an inocennt animal killed just for fashion sake. If I had imagined the most glorious fur coat in the world, I would surely put my sketch into a trashcan.

Do you consider yourself a committed fashion designer?
I surely am. I always create, always, constant. I do my own patterns, prints, luckily, I don't like to sew or I'd be spending many more hours in my studio, working some more.

In your free time, do you still paint?

No, but I really want to. I draw and you will see again some of my drawings in my next collection. I do have that note book / sketchbook and it is filled with ideas and concepts for Art, design and fashion projects. My art work will surely be my priority one day.

How is the Serbian Fashion scene doing?

To be honest, not so well lately. Everyone has a fashion brand now and barely anyone is a fashion designer. And real fashion designers seem to lack energy, creativity. It is tough these days to stay focused and remain on the market, but on the bright side, there is Alexandar Nikolich.. . or Milan Zejak, to name a few.

How much of your Serbian heritage do you put into your collections?

So much and always. Beside of kitsch and baroque, Serbian heritage plays great role in my collections. From ethnic, cultural, historical - it's all important to me. From national costumes, medieval churches to the mighty brutalism... there is Tesla, there is Milunka Savić... so there you go. Mix all that kitsch, baroque and Serbian heritage and you get Ana Ljubinković label.

What are you dreaming of now?

In recent years, I've been really enjoying my life, creating a little bit less. Resting a bit, contemplating also. I've been very lucky. My dreams mainly become true. What a blessing.

All the pictures are Courtesy of  Ana Ljubinković

Ana Ljubinkovic

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