#MCCOTInterview {52}

Chantelle Nicholson, the passionate New zealander  slow chef who turns precious natural treasures of our beloved Mother Earth into a one-of-a-kind culinary experience that delights the palate

When it comes to embracing a slower and more sustainable living, it makes sense that eco-consciousness has to organically become a priority and a daily virtuous habit of ours. And as buying less but better is surely one of the first steps towards a meaningful change, cooking with conscious is the new good rule to follow.  Born and raised in untamed and remote New-Zealand and Londoner by adoption since 2004, renowned Green Michelin-starred Slow chef Chantelle Nicholson is a perfect culinary role model to get inspired by in our kitchens. Passionate about food and cooking since an early age, Chantelle is a former trained lawyer by trade who, by chance and unexpectedly, had the golden opportunity to embark on an extraordinary culinary journey and become a talented and committed-to-the-environment chef, restaurateur and author who advocates  for seasonality, circularity and regenerative practices. A genuine, sensitive, generous and empathetic woman, driven by no ambition just her heart, who put her skills and dedication to celebrate and promote an authentic, flavourful, healthy, and ethical cuisine that is respectful of human beings and Nature. The happy owner of Apricity, a unique farm-to-table restaurant nestled in the heart of Mayfair in London since 2022 and also a chef partner at Danish recently-opened Fjora. Meet a sincere country girl raised close to Nature and bold of her roots, who is already making a difference. A trailblazer who is resolutely showing the world the right way to cook and enjoy food. 

By Hélène Battaglia

Who are you?

I am Chantelle Nicholson. I grew up in New Zeland and moved to London in 2004. I have a restaurant called Apricity in Mayfair, London and I'm chef partner of Fjora restaurant at the 1Hotel in Copenhagen.

When did you discover your passion for cooking?

From a very early age. I loved food! I recall baking from a very young age, and cooking was always just something I enjoyed. In terms of becoming a professional chef, I started working as a cook in 2000, part time, whilst I was at university. I then took the leap into being a chef when I moved to London.

The background of yours is quite unconventional. From being a trained lawyer, you turned yourself into a renowned and inspiring slow chef. Where did this big decision come from?

I feel it was a bit of a twist of fate, I was offered a job at the Savoy Grill in London, whilst I still lived in NZ. I didn't want to turn down such an amazing opportunity, so thought, 'what did I have to lose' and jumped in head first.

How did you manage this successful vocational retraining?

Going from working 7 1/2 hour days in an office to 18 hour days in a large, Michelin-starred kitchen, was quite the change. Once my body got used to the hours, and physical demands, I really enjoyed it - I was like a sponge, soaking up as much information as possible.

By the way, when and why did you start advocating for slow and conscious cooking?

Growing up in NZ, surrounded by incredible produce and being so connected to the land (my extended family have a stone fruit orchard where I spent a lot of my summers) it felt like it was inherent in my DNA. When I eventually had the autonomy to fully run an operation - at Tredwells - I started to feel more as if I was trying to put a square peg in a round hole, and therefore wanted to make some positive changes to ensure both people and planet were given the level of care needed.

How being born and raised in remote and untamed New-Zealand has inspired your vision of life as a chef but also as a human being?

Due to spending so much time in the orchard, I saw how hard people worked to create delicious produce, and I wanted to ensure that it was respected and honoured. Mother Nature is the most incredible part of this world, and we need to respect and honour her.

Which are your core values when it comes to cooking?

It must be delicious. It must be responsible. It must honour those who were part of it - growers, bakers, farmers, chefs, suppliers, delivery people, the whole chain.

Which words would you use to describe your personal cooking style?

Flavourful, conscious, authentic.

Is there a female or a male chef that has been and still is a role model to you?

Many - I think the work of Alice Waters, and of Dan Barber were very present in my career. There are also many that I am inspired by in different ways, today.

You are not only a talented chef but you also are a committed and generous one involved in many charitable events. How important is it to you to support and give back anytime you can?

I place importance on supporting initiatives that I think are needed - they include working with children to connect them to food and where it comes from, also reducing food waste, and supporting those who need it more.

What exactly can people expect to learn from your first solo cookbook 'Planted' ?

Planted is a plant-based cookbook and tries to impart my experience of creating plant-based restaurant dishes. It's a book that contains many of my favourite base recipes to build dishes on. It's full of beautiful vegetables and fruit, and hopefully serves as a guide to work from for those wanting to create more plant-forward dishes.

You are a proud ambassador of regenerative hospitality. Could you please tell us more about this innovative concept?

I don't think it's an innovative concept, I feel as if it's circulating back to how things used to be - when we didn't just sustain, we regenerated land, oceans, people and communities. I believe the best way for everything to function is in a circular way, where we reduce loss and waste, and keep things within the circle by regenerating as we go. I believe that hospitality is such a joyful and rewarding industry, and needs to care and attention it deserves to be able to regenerate those within, as well as those who get to enjoy it.

On March 2022, you opened Apricity, a Michelin Green-starred and farm-to-table restaurant located in Mayfair in London, the metropolis you have been living in since 2004. How is this place so close to your heart?

Apricity is a journey of regeneration. It's not a destination, and it's a constant work in progress, a bit like a farm - it needs seeds to be planted, to be tended, to be weeded and for soil health to be given priority. It's a restaurant that is constantly looking at how things can be done better, whilst delivering delicious food and warm hospitality. It's many things, and is very much a circular initiative that keeps circulating.

You recently embarked on a new journey as chef partner at Fjora in Copenhagen. Could you tell us more about this new exciting culinary adventure of yours?

I adore Copenhagen. It's one of my favourite cities and I'm so grateful that I get to spend time there and work with an incredible bunch of people, in such a beautiful space. I've really enjoyed learning more about the culinary scene, and meeting and working with some wonderful growers, farmers, bakers and makers. I feel fortunate to be able to bring my ethos and learnings into a hotel environment too - where there are many opportunities to look at regenerative paths. It's a challenging and rewarding journey to be on.

By chance, do you have in mind to go back, sooner or later, to your roots and open a restaurant in your hometown, Hamilton?

The UK is now my home too, and whilst my roots are in NZ, I feel grateful to have two such wonderful countries to call home.

Apparently 'We are what we eat'. As a skilled and passionate woman who cooks for a living, which useful and simple tips could you give us to become eco-conscious chefs in our own kitchens?

Be conscious - think more about where your food comes from and how you can support a better ecosystem, better biodiversity, and more responsible producers.

Minimise waste - think of how many people contributed to getting that food to you, respect them.

Be curious - keep learning, asking questions and enriching what you know (whether that is about provenance, nutrition or how to maximise flavour)

Which is your 'Madeleine de Proust' favorite recipe and why?

I can't pick just one, so in my top ten would probably be a date scone. They're quite particular to NZ, and when made well, they are phenomenally delicious, especially with a thick layer of salted butter.

A simple, quick and tasty recipe by Chantelle

Rich Chicken Broth

Take your roast chicken bones, pop into a pan and cover with water. Simmer for 90 minutes. Strain off and season the stock. Add seasonal vegetables (in autumn/winter - brassicas such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cavolo nero) and simmer until al dente. Serve as is or with grated Cheddar.

A special message to the world...

Stay curious - keep learning, tasting, trying, and be present.

All the pictures are Courtesy of  Mrs. Chantelle Nicholson.  All rights reserved.

Chantelle Nicholson

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@chef_chantelle

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