#MCCOTInterview {42}
Virginie Devinster, the French fashion designer and proud ecopreneur who shows the way forward
Slow Fashion is for sure no novelty for Virginie Devinster, a French globe-trotter storyteller who spent 15 years of her life in Africa. The Bidart-based Fashion designer and happy founder of the eponymous 2006-born 100 % handcrafted ethno-boho and eco-responsible fashion brand V.DE.VINSTER has been a trailblazer what concerns sustainability and ethicality in fashion. Committed to the environment and to people forever, it has always been a priority for Virginie to do things in the right way. Supporting and paying tribute in a beautiful way to the local and unique craftsmanship. Starting small in her first Dakar-based little atelier, growing organically and working since then with Indian small family businesses of skilled and passionate craftsmen. Let's chat with a strong and independent woman whose collections are the perfect mirror of her travel and life experiences and how she sees the world. A true female role model for her two daughters. A generous human being who deeply cares for our Mother Earth and the network of people she works with, values and has built strong and long-term bonds with. A talented creative director who made fashion a personal affair. Following no rules and trends just her heart and soul.
By Hélène Battaglia
Who are you?
My name is Virginie Devinster. I'm the founder and designer of V.DE.VINSTER.
How your 15-year stay in Africa leave a mark on your private and professional life?
Life has certainly been forever changed, especially with two beautiful daughters! My ex-husband lives in Benin so the relationship with the continent is still on-going.
Could you tell us more about your Africa, the one you fell in love with?
Life in West Africa is so exuberant and joyful. Its creativity is on full display in markets where you can meet all kinds of craftsmen. I’ve been introduced to its fashion watching Mama-Benzes handling the business of wax fabric and embroiderers who notably create ceremonial costumes. They are extraordinary.
Establishing a fashion brand was clearly not in your plans. You did not train for that. It happened by chance. What brought you to embark on this new entrepreneurial and creative journey of yours?
Before being a designer, I was a stylist, so I had already an extensive knowledge in fashion. Early in the 2000s, there was a trend of customizing basics, and I started to customize tank-tops with wax fabric and embroidery. It was more a hobby. Somehow it caught the attention of Who’s Next Paris who invited me to showcase my work. Japanese retailers loved it, quickly followed by the rest of the world. Surprisingly, France was not so into it !
How did you get ready for this big exciting but also challenging new chapter of your professional life?
Everything grew organically. I started with a small atelier in Dakar and when the orders got bigger, I opened another one and so on. I learned the trade little by little.
Your eponym brand V.DE.VINSTER was born in 2006. What made it stand from the crowd from its foundation?
Well, it was one of a kind because everything was handmade. You couldn’t do what I do in a factory and it was quite refreshing at the time.
How would you describe your style in a few words?
Boheme, ethnic, adventurous.
In the 2000’s, as a true trailblazer and ambassador of a Slow and ethical Fashion -before the latter would be on everybody’s lips-, and eco-conscious female founder which difficulties did you go through while imposing your vanguardist vision on the market?
The difficulties on my side was to meet the growing demand. My ateliers in Dakar couldn’t keep up because it was too much for them, so I had to relocate in India where I found more experienced ateliers and craftsmen. They could handle deadlines and quantities. Other difficulties came from the customers who had the desire for handmade but didn’t understand the implications. Organic dyes change over time or sometimes embroideries were not perfect. Pieces were returned. Clients were lost. Nowadays, people know better and are more appreciative. We’re in a good place.
Your creative process is always linked to cherished travel memories of yours. Mixing and matching cultures, fabrics and local craftsmanship is what you love to do, isn’t?
I am the sum of my experiences and it takes shape through clothing. This is how I see the world.
How do you scout the international small and skilled artisans you work together and build a strong human and respectful connection with?
I meet my collaborators in markets. They are usually small family businesses with specific styles or technical skills. When we work together, I always pay good and fast, and this is a good basis for a strong professional relationship. I’m really grateful for their work and the feeling is mutual. I visit them twice a year, spend time in the ateliers, share meals or a comforting cup of chai.
More than a fashion designer and creative director, do you love the idea of being considered as a globe-trotter storyteller inspired by her travels around the world?
This definition suits me better than the classic fashion designer. I’m not in my office, scribbling ideas on a notebook, disconnected from the world. My ideas come upon contact of fabric, people, stories, smell or light around me. I create on spot. I think I should document the process but I usually travel alone and I don’t have time to take pictures.
Each collection is a new adventure to share. An invitation to discover a place you visited and enjoyed. This summer 2024, where do you bring us?
Bali ! I fell in love with the country and started to scout for ateliers. I made a couple of pieces there. It’s a good start. The rest of the collection was made in India of course. India is strong in the brand’s DNA.
As an insider, do you think that slow fashion is just another it-trend, or it is taken seriously enough to last and allow to turn the fashion industry into a greener and more ethical market?
Everything is a trend until it settles and becomes a new standard. This is my wish.
As a citizen of the world and as a woman who has found her true path and happiness, what do you wish for yourself, for the whole Humanity, for Mother Earth?
Peace.
All the pictures S/S 2024 are Courtesy of Mrs. Virginie Devinster
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